
The Monsoon Kitchens of Kalina
East Indian home chefs have been frying fugias for four hundred years. The pumpkin got expensive. The recipe did not.
A hungry state of mind
The stories behind the food. The people, the places, the plates.
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East Indian home chefs have been frying fugias for four hundred years. The pumpkin got expensive. The recipe did not.

In Chembur Camp, Sindhi home kitchens are doing the work that no restaurant in this city ever bothered to do. The koki is on WhatsApp. The sai bhaji is on a delivery app. The map is in the spice tin.

Dadar Parsi Colony built itself around a community of 14,000. The community is smaller now. The kitchens are not. A dhansak made on the third floor of a 1930s block is now eaten in a flat in Goregaon, twenty kilometres and one app away.

A 75-year-old Sindhi cafe in Chembur. A vegetable price that doubled in May. A community that lost a country and kept the recipes. And what happens when the kokum gets expensive.

A 1,400-year-old eating tradition in Bhendi Bazaar. A wholesale inflation rate of 2.13 percent. A chicken sushi roll where the kheema samosa used to be. And a generation of cooks deciding what stays and what goes.

Dadar Parsi Colony is 97 years old. The kitchens inside it are older. Now they're open for business.

Powai's tiffin economy was always run by women. The professionals just started paying what it was worth.